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Just In Case We Do Get Cold Weather This Year :                                 "How To Prevent Freezing Pipes"

12/3/2013

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How to Prevent Freezing Pipes By: Douglas Trattner

Published: November 8, 2012

By taking preventive measures before cold weather arrives, you can prevent freezing pipes and the costly damage that goes with them.

Where the trouble lies

"Some pipes are more prone to freezing than others because of their location in the home," explains Paul Abrams, spokesman for Roto-Rooter.

Pipes most at risk for freezing include:

  • Exposed pipes in unheated areas of the home.
  • Pipes located in exterior walls.
  • Any plumbing on the exterior of the home.
Preventative measures for outside

A frozen garden hose can cause more damage than a busted hose; it can actually burst an interior pipe. When the water in the hose freezes, it expands, increasing pressure throughout the whole plumbing system. As part of your regular seasonal maintenance, garden hoses should be disconnected, drained, and stored before the first hard freeze.

If you don't have frost-proof spigots, close the interior shut-off valve leading to that faucet, open and drain the spigot, and install a faucet insulator. They cost only a couple bucks and are worth every penny. Don’t forget, outdoor kitchens need winterizing, too, to prevent damage.

Exposed interior plumbing

Exposed pipes in the basement are rarely in danger of freezing because they are in a heated portion of the home. But plumbing pipes in an unheated area, such as an attic,crawl space, and garage, are at risk of freezing. 

Often, inexpensive foam pipe insulation is enough for moderately cold climates. For severe climes, opt for wrapping problem pipes with thermostatically controlled heat tape (from $50 to $200, depending on length), which will turn on at certain minimum temps.

Under-insulated walls

If pipes traveling in exterior walls have frozen in the past (tell-tale signs include water damage, mold, and moisture build-up), it’s probably because of inadequate or improperly installed insulation. It might well be worth the couple hundred dollars it costs to open up the wall and beef up the insulation. 

"When nothing else works, say for a northern wall in a really cold climate, the last resort is to reroute a pipe," notes Abrams. Depending on how far the pipe needs to be moved — and how much damage is caused in the process — this preventative measure costs anywhere from $700 on up. Of course, putting the room back together is extra.

Heading south for the winter?

For folks leaving their houses for an extended period of time in winter, additional preventative measures must be taken to adequately protect the home from frozen pipes.

  • Make sure the furnace is set no lower than 55 degrees.
  • Shut off the main water supply and drain the system by opening all faucets and flushing the toilets.
In extreme situations (vacation home in a bitterly cold climate), Abrams recommends having a plumber come to inspect the system, drain the hot water heater, and perhaps replace the water in traps and drains with nontoxic antifreeze.

Source: Houselogic.com
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"How To Use a Programmable Thermostat to See Real Savings"

11/25/2013

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  • Programmable thermostat in family home

    How to Use a Programmable Thermostat to See Real Savings

    A programmable thermostat can help you rake in the energy savings, but there’s a hitch: You’ve got to pick one you’ll actually use. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Easy Ways To Seal Air Leaks Around  The House

11/22/2013

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8 Easy Ways to Seal Air Leaks Around the HouseBy: Jeanne Huber

Published: September 16, 2009

For what the typical family wastes every year on air leaks--about $350--you can plug energy-robbing gaps, start saving money, and enjoy a more comfortable home.


1. Insulate around recessed lights

Most recessed lights have vents that open into the attic, a direct route for heated or cooled air to escape. When you consider that many homes have 30 or 40 of these fixtures, it's easy to see why researchers at the Pennsylvania Housing Research/Resource Center pinpointed them as a leading cause of household air leaks. Lights labeled ICAT, for "insulation contact and air tight," are already sealed; look for the label next to the bulb. If you don't see it, assume yours leaks. An airtight baffle ($8-$30 at the home center) is a quick fix. Remove the bulb, push the baffle up into the housing, then replace the bulb.

2. Plug open stud cavities

Most of your house probably has an inner skin of drywall or plaster between living space and unheated areas. But builders in the past often skipped this cover behind knee walls (partial-height walls where the roof angles down into the top floor), above dropped ceilings or soffits, and above angled ceilings over stairs.

Up in the attic, you may need to push insulation away to see if the stud cavities are open. If they are, seal them with unfaced fiberglass insulation ($1.30 a square foot) stuffed into plastic garbage bags; the bag is key to blocking air flow. Close large gaps with scraps of drywall or pieces of reflective foil insulation ($2 a square foot). Once you've covered the openings, smooth the insulation back into place. To see these repairs in action, consult Energy Star's DIY guide to air sealing.

3. Close gaps around flues and chimneys

Building codes require that wood framing be kept at least one inch from metal flues and two inches from brick chimneys. But that creates gaps where air can flow through. Cover the gaps with aluminum flashing ($12) cut to fit and sealed into place with high-temperature silicone caulk ($20). To keep insulation away from the hot flue pipe, form a barrier by wrapping a cylinder of flashing around the flue, leaving a one-inch space in between. To maintain the spacing, cut and bend a series of inch-deep tabs in the cylinder's top and bottom edges.

4. Weatherstrip the attic access door

A quarter-inch gap around pull-down attic stairs or an attic hatch lets through the same amount of air as a bedroom heating duct. Seal it by caulking between the stair frame and the rough opening, or by installing foam weatherstripping around the perimeter of the hatch opening. Or you can buy a pre-insulated hatch cover kit, such as the Energy Guardian from ESS Energy Products ($150).

5. Squirt foam in the medium-size gaps

Once the biggest attic gaps are plugged, move on to the medium-size ones. Low-expansion polyurethane foam in a can is great for plugging openings 1/4-inch to three inches wide, such as those around plumbing pipes and vents. A standard 12-ounce can ($5) is good for 250 feet of bead about half an inch thick. The plastic straw applicator seals shut within two hours of the first use, so to get the most mileage out of a can, squirt a lubricant such as WD-40 onto a pipe cleaner and stuff that into the applicator tube between uses.

6. Caulk the skinny gaps

Caulk makes the best gap-filler for openings less than 1/4-inch wide, such as those cut around electrical boxes. Silicone costs the most ($8 a tube) but works better next to nonporous materials, such as metal flashing, or where there are temperature extremes, as in attics. Acrylic latex caulk ($2 a tube) is less messy to work with and cleans up with water.

7. Plug gaps in the basement

Gaps low on a foundation wall matter if you're trying to fix a wet basement, but only those above the outside soil level let air in. Seal those with the same materials you'd use in an attic: caulk for gaps up to 1/4-inch wide and spray foam for wider ones. Use high-temperature caulk around vent pipes that get hot, such as those for the furnace or water heater. Shoot foam around wider holes for wires, pipes, and ducts that pass through basement walls to the outside.

In most older houses with basements, air seeps in where the house framing sits on the foundation. Spread a bead of caulk between the foundation and the sill plate (the wood immediately above the foundation), and along the top and bottom edges of the rim joist (the piece that sits atop the sill plate).

8. Tighten up around windows and doors

In the main living areas of your home, the most significant drafts tend to occur around windows and doors. If you have old windows, caulking and adding new weatherstripping goes a long way toward tightening them up. Bronze weatherstripping ($12 for 17 feet) lasts for decades but is time-consuming to install, while some self-stick plastic types are easy to put on but don't last very long. Adhesive-backed EPDM rubber ($8 for 10 feet) is a good compromise, rated to last at least 10 years. Nifty gadgets called pulley seals ($9 a pair) block air from streaming though the holes where cords disappear into the frames.

Weatherstripping also works wonders on doors. If a draft comes in at the bottom, install a new door sweep ($9).

Before working in the attic, take some precautions

Try to do attic work on a cool day. Wear protective gear: disposable clothes, gloves, and a double-elastic mask or half-face respirator. Bring along a droplight with a fluorescent bulb, plus at least two pieces of plywood big enough to span two or three joists to support you as you work. To save trips up and down a ladder, try to move up all of the materials you need before you get started. One warning: If you find vermiculite insulation, hold off until you've had it checked for asbestos; your health department or air-quality agency can recommend a lab.

Source: Houselogic.com
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Great Thanksgiving Tips

11/21/2013

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  • Family gathered around the Thanksgiving table

    How to Clean Up After Thanksgiving in Half the Time

    The Pilgrims were on to something when they planned a Thanksgiving potluck; here are other good ideas that’ll simplify your T-Day kitchen cleanup. Read

  • An open refrigerator

    How to Organize Your Refrigerator

    Leftovers gobbling up space in your refrigerator? Here are some tips for keeping things organized, efficient, and tasty. Read

  • Child sticking his finger in a pumpkin pie

    Tips on How To Prepare Your Home for Holiday Guests

    Is your home ready for holiday visits from friends and family? Here’s how to prepare for the invasion. Read

  • Holiday Hosting Tips How To Host On The Holidays

    5 Holiday Hosting Disasters and How to Avoid Them

    Take a look at the most common things that can go wrong when you have guests and learn how to prevent them. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Fireplace Tip # 2 - How To Clean It Up

11/19/2013

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Cleaning up the fireplace whether is natural wood burning or gas, is very important.
Read this great article that talks precisely about this subject.

How to Clean Your FireplaceBy: Douglas Trattner

Published: September 17, 2012

Wood- and gas-burning fireplaces need regular cleaning for safety and efficiency. Although some tasks are DIY-friendly, others are best left to the pros.

Cleaning a Wood-Burning Fireplace

Keeping a wood-burning fireplace clean begins with the wood you burn. To help prevent the buildup of dangerous (and dirty) creosote, which can lead to chimney fires, only use properly seasoned and stored firewood.

Ash Removal

Wood ashes only need to be removed when they begin to smell or get in the way of fire building. To remove, simply shovel up the ashes, place them in a bag, and dispose in the trash. 

If your fireplace has an ash dump, push the ashes through the metal plate in the floor of the firebox. Use a vacuum to clean up the remaining ashes in the firebox and on the hearth.

Heads up: You’ll want to wait at least 72 hours after your last fire before attempting any cleanup. That way, you won’t put any hot coals in the trash where they could start a fire.

Also, don’t send hot or warm coals down the ash dump because they can ignite a fire in the walls.

Smoke and Soot

Poor drafting -- caused by a clogged flue (and forgetting to open the flue damper!) -- can result in the buildup of smoke and soot on the fireplace surround -- the area around the fireplace opening. Wearing gloves and using a stiff brush, clean the surround with a masonry cleaner.

If your fireplace has glass doors, clean the inside and outside with a standard glass cleaner or a homemade green window cleaner. 

Pro Cleaning Schedule

Burning even the driest firewood will lead to soot and creosote buildup on the flue walls lining the chimney. Because both of these byproducts are flammable and dangerous, they must periodically be removed. Creosote buildup is the leading cause of chimney fires.

“If you burn a fire about once a week throughout winter, you should have your chimney inspected annually and professionally cleaned every other year,” explains Gary Spolar, a licensed chimney sweep and owner of Century Chimney in chilly northeast Ohio. Heavy users might require professional cleanings every year, he adds.

Regular chimney maintenance ensures warmth and safety. An inspection and a cleaning by a professional chimney sweep costs $150-$250.

Beware of store-bought fireplace logs promising to remove creosote buildup when you burn them. The Chimney Safety Institute of America says, “The use of these products alone is not an adequate substitute for mechanical chimney cleaning and inspection because it does not provide for the same level of protection to the chimney system.”

Cleaning Gas-Burning Fireplaces

We love gas fireplaces because they’re low-maintenance -- but that doesn't mean they’re no-maintenance.

Remove (if possible) and clean the glass doors with a non-ammonia-based glass cleaner or homemade vinegar solution.  

Use a vacuum to clean up any debris inside or around the vents of the heat exchanger (if one exists). Check that gas logs are in the proper position.

Related:

Ideas to Revitalize Your Fireplace

How to Make Sure Your Fireplace is Safe

Source: houselogic.com
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Great Tips For Cooler Weather

10/22/2013

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  • Insulated garage door

    How To Insulate A Garage Door

    Garage door insulation cuts energy bills and street noise. Here’s how to insulate your garage door. Read

  • Taking care of a leaky window

    Got Leaky Windows? 3 Low-Cost Tips to Fix Them

    I used to hang an extra woolly robe in my bathroom because my post-shower route took me past a window so drafty it made me wonder about the etymology of “window.” Turns out it comes from the Anglo-Saxon “vindr” and “auga,” which translates as “wind eye.” How appropriate. Read

  • Window Door Inspection Air Leaks

    How to Inspect Windows, Doors to Stop Air and Water Leaks

    Inspect windows and doors regularly to stop air leaks and water seeps that create high energy and repair bills. We’ll show you how. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Here Are Some Maintenance Things You May Want To Consider Doing Now

9/6/2013

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  • Installing weather stripping on a garage door

    How to Replace Weather Stripping

    When weather stripping on doors and windows gets worn out, cold air comes sneaking in. Here’s how to replace weather stripping and stop air leaks. Read

  • Fall Maintenance Checklist

    You’ll be ready for winter’s worst and head off expensive repairs when you complete this checklist of 10 essential fall maintenance tasks. Read

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    How to Clean Up Your Garden for Fall & Winter

    Tidy your garden for fall and winter before the first frost to keep it comely even after the growing ends. Read

  • Fall Lawn Care: 4 Ways to Say G’Night For The Winter

    Labor Day through Halloween is your window for preparing lawns for a lush spring. Read

  • 4 Leaf Removal Tools that Clear Yards of Fall Debris

    Just for fun, take an inventory of all the leaf removal tools cluttering your garage. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Tips On Fencing Your Yard

8/30/2013

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  • backyard deer fences

    Deer Fences Keep Bambi Out of Your Yard

    Which deer fence keeps the varmints out of your yard and garden? Here’s a look at the plastic, electric, and wood barriers that stand between deer and your plants. Read

  • neighbor property fence

    Fence Etiquette: Tips to Avoid Neighbor Disputes

    If you practice fence etiquette and bone up on local zoning regs, you can avoid neighbor disputes. Read

  • Home Privacy Screens Privacy Screens For Smaller Houses

    Add A Living Privacy Screen to Your Small Home

    A living privacy screen of trees, shrubs, and hedges works as well as a solid fence, and looks better. Read

  • Wooden fence in yard of residence

    Fencing: A Guide to the Options

    When shopping for a fence, you need to consider everything from style to function to how much maintenance it’ll require. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Need To Know How To Paint Anything 'There's An App For That'

8/19/2013

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  • Need to Know How to Paint Anything? There’s an App for That

    A new painting app teaches you ‘How To Paint Anything.’ We love the bonus tips. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Read This Before Painting Your Driveway

8/14/2013

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  • how to paint concrete

    Concrete Painting Basics

    Prepping and painting concrete surfaces requires more skill, tools, and time than throwing a coat of paint on drywall. Here’s how to put a new face on concrete. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Using Your Programmable Thermostat

8/12/2013

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Picture
  • Programmable thermostat in family home

    How to Use a Programmable Thermostat to See Real Savings

    A programmable thermostat can help you rake in the energy savings, but there’s a hitch: You’ve got to pick one you’ll actually use. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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Tips On How To Choose Paint Color

8/12/2013

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  • Wall color contrasts with this white-painted fireplace

    How to Pick Paint Colors

    Paint has remodeling power when you use it to emphasize a room’s best features or play down the flaws. Read

Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this.

Copyright 2013 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

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